a week from this moment I will be packing!
Little update before I head off to Mass, second to last one here in Buenos Aires.
Chugging along with the ISP – they´re due on Thursday morning. I have around 25 pages right now with not sure how many left to go, at least 20. Tomorrow the plan is write write write, break for a kick boxing class and lunch, and meet with a Spanish professor in the afternoon to go over what I have so far. Tuesday morning I return to Merlo to interview Padre Jose and say goodbye after my quick departure this Monday night (more on that below). I´ll return to probably sit in front of the computer screen until I send it on Thursday. Thursday and Friday we all present our work, Thursday night there is a farewell dinner for families, and I think Friday night we leave for a final group trip to Tigre (somewhere close by with water). We come back Sunday and then fly home Monday night!!
In my time since the last post I continued research in Buenos Aires, and also went to Merlo for 5 days to take part in the community of the Parroquia de San Pablo. Life in the outskirts of the province of Buenos Aires is much, much different. I was reminded of rural Costa Rica, with humbler houses, unpaved roads, and more contact with nature, both flora and fauna. I stayed with recently married couple Beto and Adriana, and their 2 adorable girls Lisa aged 2 and Abril 10 months. Unfortunately Lisa got sick the second day I was there and so from that point on I didn´t see much of the family as Adriana camped out in the hospital and Beto works nights.
At the parish they welcomed me and although at times it was awkward with wanting to help but not knowing how, I was able to join in a lot of the work. Helped with the comedor (soup kitchen), which operates for breakfast, lunch (during time of crisis 600 came to eat but now number is around 100/200), and then a merienda (snack at 5). Did general cleaning, organizing – whatever Mari, Padre Jose´s right hand woman, directed me to do. Observed the myriad of activities that keep this place buzzing… classes of leather, computation, folklore dancing kung fu (!). Joined an asado the first night and an all day end of year solidarity festival on Sunday. Felt the air brimming with Argentina culture there, as I sat in the sun in the midst of hundreds of people chatting at tables, drinking beer and mate, eating asado – the folklore music in the air and children dancing in costume – groups of scraggly kids playing soccer on the nearby field. Later on there were rock bands, and eventually we all went inside to watch La Boca (big soccer team) compete for (and then lose) the championship on Padre Jose´s gigantic screen he put up in the soup kitchen. He´s a huge fan, with his own personalized jersey (PADRE JOSE on back). Sadly I started to feel sick a few days in and then Monday felt terrible, feverish and unable to do much more than shiver in bed. At night Brenda and I decided at the last minute that I should return to Buenos Aires, since my symptoms were similar to what they were at the beginning of the sickness in Costa Rica and that night was awful – and especially because I was alone in the house in Ferrari. Midnight taxi ride and returned to my family here waiting outside with open arms (what a change after caring for myself! Pitiful walk alone to find soup and Gatorade a few hours earlier). I now feel much better, after spending the week in bed working and on antibiotics. Doctor thinks it was food or water poisoning – put me on a strict diet, for first few days only consumed rice, shredded apple, crackers, and Diet Sprite with the carbonation removed. Eventually, worked like a charm! Even ate a few empanadas today.
Time for Mass. The conclusion update is coming…
Project Excitement!
Today is a magical day! I am in love with my project. Alone here in CEDES, about to get organized.
The magic began with a clase de kick-boxing. Ha! I LOVE Latin American gym classes. This one was taught by a super energetic (as usual) young woman who jumped around demonstrating the kicks and punches and constantly made those high pitched whistles with her fingers when it was time for a new move (every few seconds seemingly). She also provided inspiration by getting on the ground to be a target when we were doing kick-low moves. I didn’t know what to expect – instead of starting out more slowly like the other gym classes I’ve been to this one dove right in – pumped up the music and she started with some serious Charlies Angels style punches (fuerte, fuerte!). We soon got into 5 step coordinated moves where we sort of hopped to one side, punching with each step and then ending with a crazy leg and arm parallel to the floor whole body kick. I laughed at myself in the mirror! She said to think of people we didn’t like – I imagined myself beating to a pulp any negative energy from my life til now. :) We also did fun things like getting in a circle and all doing the kick moves towards an elderly male member of the group (?). Ha! Sometimes my body hurt but yay for that pain.
Brilliant sunshine again as usual (I’m becoming marróncita my family says!), home to pack for interview, and then took subte to a new smashing vegetarian restaurant. Tarta of carrot and acelga (something spinach like) and a great salad, lots of flavor.
Soon went to the cafe where my advisor Graciela (a social sciences professor) and I had arranged to meet. She is fabulous! Really liked her style from the first moment – comfortable with herself, seems well-versed in the ways of the world... dyed red hair and sort of gypsy like clothes. She treated me to a cafe con leche and we talked about my interests and background a bit before getting into the project. “Muy amplio” (very wide) she said – but luckily she had wonderful ideas/specific steps for me to take with it. I am lucky she's working with me - at first declined because she already has too many projects and likes to give all she has to the projects she takes on (as I can see), but she was swayed by e-mails from Brenda and my proposal, which deals with themes of her own heart. (That reminds me that she always called me "mi corazon.")
First I am going to read documents – general ones from Vatican 2, “Populorum Progressio (a mandate from the Pope),” and documents from an important ’68 conference of bishops in Medellin, Columbia. She gave me a book of letters written by a give-his-all fiery, passionate for social justice bishop Miguel E. Hesayne, and a video that’s not marketed, from the underground circuit she said (can’t lose it), published by Hijos (organization of children of desparecidos) called Padre Nuestros.
Mostly translated synopsis from back:
In the decade of the 60s there was a process of renovation inside the Catholic Church. Vatican 2 with Pope John XXIII, la Enciclica Papal Populorum Progressio with Pope Pablo VI, the experience with Europe of the working priests and the declaration in 1967 of the Priests of the Third World marked a before and after in the realm of the Church. This manifestation of change led in Argentina to the birth of el Movimiento de Sacerdotes para el Tercer Mundo (MSTM) – Movement of Priests for the Third World.
The MTSM looks to build a Church engaged with the poor and the popular fights for liberation from the decades of the 60s and 70s. In these years ‘el pueblo argentino’ looked, by distinctive routes, to transform itself into a society more just and full of solidarity.
Wow. Also incredibly exciting – she already has an interview arranged with me tomorrow at 10:30 with “Pichi” – a German friend of hers/priest who was one of the founding members of the Movement! He now works with a local NGO, where I’ll meet him tomorrow. He has been a part of every generation of her family, baptisms, marriages, funerals. He at first said he didn’t have time to talk/doesn’t remember any of the stories, but he then agreed to give me 2 hours of story telling and question answering time! Ahh.
Graciela also gave me a prayer card from another priest – P. Carlos Mugica, a friend of Pichi’s and another founding member of the movement, who was assassinated 30 years ago. The back reads:
Translated Prayer of P. Mugica
Meditation of the villa (very poor neighborhood)
God, pardon me for having become accustomed to seeing the children that seem to have 8 years but really have thirteen:
God, pardon me for having become accustomed to the mud of the ground: I can go, others can’t:
God, pardon me for having learned to tolerate the smell of the water, of which I can leave and others can’t:
God, pardon me for turning on the light and forgetting that others can’t do so:
God, I can make a strike for hunger and others can’t: because no one strikes with their hunger:
God, pardon me for saying “not only with bread man lives” and not fighting with everything to rescue the bread:
God, I want to love them for who they are and not for me. Help me.
God, I dream of dying for them: help me to live for them.
God, I want to be with them at the hour of the light. Help me.
Ok, time to finalize my proposal and research for the chat with Pichi!
:)
Glad you are following this journey. The inspiration I am taking from all of this is just sprouting...
ISP begins
Independent Study Period officially beginning now!!
Oh excellent.
I just returned from a day in Colonia, Uruguay, a quaint, touristy, well-preserved old town right on the water. This morning I woke early and took a subway at 7 to get to the “Buquebus (really big ship, reminded me of Titanic)” station. We left as a group around 9 and arrived around midday as it takes 3 hours to cross Rio de la Plata. Luckily, yesterday's storms disappeared and we had beautiful sun. Completely changes the mood of the day. I spent several hours sitting on benches with Claudia just soaking it up... apparent in my skin now, oops. My Uruguay experience included a group pasta lunch (I always think of family dinner movie scenes from a Christmas Carol when we eat together), sunshine appreciation next to the river, window shopping, lighthouse climbing, plaza sitting, and time above the ship retuning with dark sky, wind blowing, and BA lights in the distance... a generally tranquil day. At times during the day of group time I felt as if I was being held back; I am ready to be on my own with time for my project, family, and exploring. I was very happy to return to my madre just now. She prepared my milanesa (love these, special ordered for me from a friend, of pumpkin tonight I think), budin (~casserole) of spinach, beets, and cucumbers. Just showered...glad to have those basic needs of food and cleanliness fulfilled. After Costa ica/US/Argentina/Bolivia/Argentina/Uruguay, I will now be in just one country for the rest of this journey. Thinking that makes me feel more settled. I am getting much out of this time but that doesn’t mean I don’t dream about the return... not sure if being away is getting harder or easier with time, as I constantly go back and forth in strength.
Hard to predict what the next month will hold! The schedule will be completely different. Yesterday afternoon after turning in a final exam I walked out of Brenda’s office done with all of my classes here. Que extraño. The timing is now in my hands: in the next four weeks, I have to plan and carry out a research project culminating in an approximately 40 page paper. I spent much time thinking about possible topics, flipping through my notes and thoughts from the semester, wondering whether I should study a topic here that I’ve studied in the past... I finally had a sudden sort of random revelation/inspiration about a week and a half ago: liberation theology. This decision liberated me; I had been feeling worn down, partially from our topics – the thought of studying something uplifting that I am excited about (as opposed to violence for example) is wonderful. Luckily everything came together seamlessly. I e-mailed Brenda that night and she e-mailed me back saying it sounded perfect and that she knew of a couple options for a case study. The one that I chose is La Parroquia de San Pablo in Merlo, a place on the outskirts of the province of Buenos Aires. This parish is home to Padre Jose, a charismatic guy who used to be a doctor and married. Since his arrival in the neighborhood 14 years ago when only the parish existed, he has worked with the people to create many social projects: a health center, soup kitchen, library, cultural center... I visited last weekend, and was struck by the vibrant, colorful life of this closed-off parish. It seems to be a haven in the middle of an otherwise humble (reminiscent of Costa Rica) rural neighborhood. The plan now is to spend the first week and a half or two in Buenos Aires studying the theory of the movement of the Priests for the Third World, a leftist current within the Catholic Church in Argentina, and the attitude the Catholic Church takes towards its social projects. I will then live in Merlo for a week to study how a specific parish realizes this attitude... I will have more details soon, especially after I meet with my recently approved advisor (religion professor at the University of Buenos Aires) on Tuesday. I am looking forward to having a specific focus and delving into the research. During the remainder of my time in Buenos Aires I’m planning to go to CEDES, the research institute which is our hub, to work during the day and then hit my new gym on the way home (went swimming there yesterday! A definite treat to have gym time).
One month from now I’ll be preparing for the next day’s flight. Will try to keep myself in the moment to appreciate my time here though feeling really excited about the return... I’ll shoot for more frequent updates before then.
Quote Lisa passed along:
Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
-Henry David Thoreau
-Suerte-
Update from Bariloche
I´ve realized that I really like hostel life. Just had my third homemade meal in a row. Lunch today (basically same as dinner yesterday): bread from a local bakery and cheese, tomato, avocado, lemon to season from a local supermarket. I also have apples, banana, granola, and milk in a baggie with my name on it in the fridge. There´s a big kitchen with everything needed… silverware, oven, toaster, microwave, blender (pumpkin soup tonight possibly). I like taking care of myself this way (reminds me of apartment life from last summer). Amazing what a trip to the grocery store can do for a day´s feeling of competence.
We had a class on the origins and indigenous of Patagonia this morning from 10-12. Patagonia is an area that has always been coveted by especially Europeans - they have often seen it with its natural beauty and open spaces as an area to conquer. Much history however ignores the indigenous which were affected by these moves. For example, one event is known as the Conquest of the Desert. In reality though it was more than the desert that was conquered - a group of people was wiped out. Today in Bariloche a double face exists - that of tourism and that of the poorer neighborhoods of immigrants and Chilenos.
After class I went to buy my food, browsed in a local bookstore, and signed up for a Pilates class tomorrow! I´d eyed this place yesterday when it was closed - happily when I went today the lady had one trial spot left in the class for 6:30 tomorrow. I´m there. In these ways I can craft my own experience here within the framework of our program. We have another class, this one specifically on local social movements, from 4-6.
In the last week especially I´ve tried to settle on a topic for my final project. After often feeling confused and overwhelmed by scope of possibilities, I´m incredibly excited to be making headway. Yesterday I met with Brenda to talk about my latest ideas. I remain very interested in the idea of cultural hegemony, Gramsci´s theory that a diverse culture can be ruled by one group – that everyday life is the basis for larger systems of domination. I understand this by thinking of layers… everyone lives in the way that makes sense to them individually, but often without a full understanding of ´the larger hegemony of society.´
From Wikipedia again…
In such a layered hegemony, individual common sense, which is fragmented, is effective in helping people deal with small, everyday activities. But common sense also inhibits their ability to grasp the larger systemic nature of exploitation and hegemony. People focus on immediate concerns and problems rather than focusing upon more fundamental sources of social oppression.
I want to explore NGO work in a rural area – what is being done to raise awareness and create empowerment within the cultural hegemony related to gender oppression? I told Brenda that I´m fine leaving Buenos Aires, and that I actually think I´ll be able to work better outside of the distractions of the city – so if all goes well I´ll be heading back up North (humitas, llamas, beauty). We talked about Red Puna, a network we met with during our trip North that connects many NGOs working in the area. They have an area for gender – we talked about my going there to explore the question of changed consciousness. Though a new empowered perspective works toward solving the problem (of violence or another form of oppression), it can create a new one. When a woman changes and her environment doesn´t, she can be in worse shape than originally. I want to take part in Red Puna work and talk to people about these questions of breaking hegemony and implications of changing consciousness. Still have to decide on a specific question, but Brenda e-mailed the organization last night and so the ball is rolling… I feel really good about this. Having a tentative plan makes the rest of the semester seem more attackable – we´ll return this weekend for a final week and a half of classes in BA, and then the ISP period will begin. I will probably stay in BA to do research there before heading North for maybe 2 weeks, and then top it off with a week of reflection, final research, and writing in BA. And that´s it! Crazy. Christmas bells will be ringing before long.
Hasta pronto...
El Sur
Currently in Bariloche, in the South of Argentina. Sitting here with multiple layers on – fleece and big puffy jackets scarf, fleece headband… finally just had lunch – a delicious cheesy omelot and orange juice. My luggage will remain where it currently is for more than 1 day - change! I think we´re staying at this hostel for the rest of our trip.
So far…
Wednesday – bus ride from BA to Neuquén. 8:30 at night to 10 next morning. Sleepy so the trip a dreamy haze. Was glad to be more prepared this time with my fresh fruits and veggies to supplement the dry crackers and food they give us.
Thursday – Neuquen
Wandered city, had lunch at supposedly the best local pizza place (was tasty)
Back for a short siesta and then set off for classes
2 classes – one on general background and history of Patagonia and then a second on local social movements
Locutorio time
Dinner at an amazing Arab restaurant – mounds of hummus and tabouli! Followed by group hookah smoking, apple flavoured. Know I looked funny as I tried it for the first time – breathed in and then had to be told ¨open your mouth!¨ when it started coming out of my nose – ha!
Exhausted so back to hostel.
Friday
Back on bus in the morning after breakfast (typical coffee and scones) – headed to a local recuperated factory. These organizations are very impressive – not sure how many there are in Argentina but they are fairly common. These surge when factory owners leave and attempt to close down the factory – workers decide to run the factory themselves, take on all logistics and politics. I am so impressed by factory operation. Walked around admiring sockets turning, tiles sliding along… after all of this learning about complicated problems with no answers, it was refreshing to see such efficient processes. Place A in B, turn C and you will get D, every time.
Next – lunch at a food court and then bus for San Martin de los Andes. We left around 1 and thought we were embarking on a 2 hour trip. We actually arrived at our destination at 10:30 pm (typical). One major holdup occurred around 4 when the bus slowed to a stop… we wondered what was going on and soon heard ¨piquete.¨ Funny that this happened because we´ve been spent a lot of time learning about Piqueteros, a group of people who cut roads to make their grievances known - finally got to experience it firsthand. Many especially middle class in this country become very annoyed with these time-consuming protests... This group of workers was protesting long hours and low wages – being the social movements group that we are, we jumped out of the bus and walked past all the other stopped traffic to talk with the men sitting on tires in the middle of the road. Sort of bizarre to witness – it was very passive (as the men were just sitting there) and had a specific end time, 6:30. Police parked nearby, letting it all go on. Had to wonder about the effectiveness of this mode of protest, especially as we were in a barren very rural area.
Thrilled to arrive at our hostel last night after all those hours in bus - went out for veggie ravioli with Ashima, exactly what I was craving. Big difference from Buenos Aires – weather. Brr.
Today:
So far it´s been another mainly in-transit day. I´m fine with this bus time, enjoy listening to my iPod/reading/reflecting.
Bariloche is a beautiful (and touristy) town. On the lake (should be snowcapped mountains nearby), a common destination for groups of recent high school graduates, a haven of good chocolate… more details soon.
Schedule for rest of trip:
This weekend, depending on weather
Parque Nacional de los Arrayanes - Bariloche
Cerro Catedral, Circuito grande.
Monday
-class at Universidad de Comahue on ethnicity and social movements in Patagônia (indigenous, Chilenos, immigrants)
Meet with community organization (Radio Comunitaria en Bariloche)
Tuesday
Class on Mapuche identity, discussion with local youth. Traditional medicine vs. local. Reproductive health.
Wednesday
Environmental issues in Patagonia – minerals, toxic residue, nuclear trash, tree clearning, impact of tourism
Visit to nuclear plant
Sustainable tourism? Visit to recycling project
Movie and debate – documentary on environmental and Mapuche themes
Thursday
Human rights in Patagonia. The land as the center of this debate.
Meeting about work on the land…
Friday
TBD
Return to BA at 3:10
Many of my thoughts right now are centered on possibilities for the final project. Currently thinking about immigration and how people retain their senses of self after the move (especially interested as I can relate to the feeling of instability and confusion). Much to learn in this area - more on this to come.
Familia!
Still should upload pictures/recount learning from the North (not sure if that will happen before going South, loose ends to tie, papers to write) -- but for now want to post this picture of our lovely dinner from an hour ago. Delicious fresh vegetables and glowing company. How I love this family.
Filled with energy from watching the end of the Duke Mass!
Hasta pronto queridos
Start of an update
Friday night. Stayed in to spend time with mis padres – will miss them if I decide to leave Buenos Aires for the Independent Study Project. For all the times I feel confused here, am sure about the love in this house. Always appreciate that though sometimes when I’m exhausted at the table hard to show it. Just chatted with madre about Christmas traditions. No real pine trees here – not the season for it as Christmas falls in the middle of the summer! They have a small artificial one that they add a new ornament to every year. Presents in this country are opened right after midnight – no waiting around. I told her that we wait until the morning to give Papa Noel time to fly. Here they tell the kids “oh he came when you were in the other room” or something like that. Not the same dream time of sugar-plums. She never dressed up as Papa Noel because she’s always remembered a traumatizing experience from when she was little and her aunt dressed up as the cheery man. “You tricked me!!” This family goes over to her cousin’s house for dinner pre-gift-opening-time – a luxurious place with a garden. Deck the table with rich food... fruitcake (staple here too apparently), tortas de helado (ice cream cake)... Oh Christmas. She got a far away look in her eyes as she explained that this holiday is also full of reminiscing – “always makes me remember the absences.”
I feel stable finally after probably over-thinking a lot since our return last Saturday. (See the trend? I blog when the clear thinking/positivity returns...) Today was brilliantly sunny – woke early and had time to enjoy it from the apartment room as stretched and drank coffee. Class on social organizations in Argentina sort of hard for me to follow...less because of the language than because of the teacher’s jump around style. Enjoyed lunch at a previously hidden-to-me cafe above a bookstore close to the University of Buenos Aires. They had wheat pizza! Later, convinced my Spanish professor to let us go outside (way too gorgeous to be in) so out we went. Upon returning home went for a great run (finally, the last couple have been less than fun) down the street Malabia to a cat (and family)-filled park.
Trip to the North! Time for some kind of recap. Where to begin.
The Flecha Bus: Amazing. The rides were one of my favorite parts; I’m looking forward to riding south on Wednesday. Unlike all other buses I’ve ridden in Argentina, these have plenty of leg room, very comfy seats, movie watching equipment, and people that come around offering snack trays, mate/coffee/tea, dinner, breakfast... felt taken care of! Exciting to sleep on the bus and wake up/start October with a view of the sun rising over the Andes mountains. Goodbye city life.
Actually, with that teaser, I’m going to end it til next time. Esta chica tiene sueno. I plan to write more this weekend, as I work to get things taken care of before the next trip – hasta luego!
