La Pura Vida

El Sur

Currently in Bariloche, in the South of Argentina. Sitting here with multiple layers on – fleece and big puffy jackets scarf, fleece headband… finally just had lunch – a delicious cheesy omelot and orange juice. My luggage will remain where it currently is for more than 1 day - change! I think we´re staying at this hostel for the rest of our trip.

So far…
Wednesday – bus ride from BA to Neuquén. 8:30 at night to 10 next morning. Sleepy so the trip a dreamy haze. Was glad to be more prepared this time with my fresh fruits and veggies to supplement the dry crackers and food they give us.

Thursday – Neuquen
Wandered city, had lunch at supposedly the best local pizza place (was tasty)
Back for a short siesta and then set off for classes
2 classes – one on general background and history of Patagonia and then a second on local social movements
Locutorio time
Dinner at an amazing Arab restaurant – mounds of hummus and tabouli! Followed by group hookah smoking, apple flavoured. Know I looked funny as I tried it for the first time – breathed in and then had to be told ¨open your mouth!¨ when it started coming out of my nose – ha!
Exhausted so back to hostel.

Friday
Back on bus in the morning after breakfast (typical coffee and scones) – headed to a local recuperated factory. These organizations are very impressive – not sure how many there are in Argentina but they are fairly common. These surge when factory owners leave and attempt to close down the factory – workers decide to run the factory themselves, take on all logistics and politics. I am so impressed by factory operation. Walked around admiring sockets turning, tiles sliding along… after all of this learning about complicated problems with no answers, it was refreshing to see such efficient processes. Place A in B, turn C and you will get D, every time.

Next – lunch at a food court and then bus for San Martin de los Andes. We left around 1 and thought we were embarking on a 2 hour trip. We actually arrived at our destination at 10:30 pm (typical). One major holdup occurred around 4 when the bus slowed to a stop… we wondered what was going on and soon heard ¨piquete.¨ Funny that this happened because we´ve been spent a lot of time learning about Piqueteros, a group of people who cut roads to make their grievances known - finally got to experience it firsthand. Many especially middle class in this country become very annoyed with these time-consuming protests... This group of workers was protesting long hours and low wages – being the social movements group that we are, we jumped out of the bus and walked past all the other stopped traffic to talk with the men sitting on tires in the middle of the road. Sort of bizarre to witness – it was very passive (as the men were just sitting there) and had a specific end time, 6:30. Police parked nearby, letting it all go on. Had to wonder about the effectiveness of this mode of protest, especially as we were in a barren very rural area.

Thrilled to arrive at our hostel last night after all those hours in bus - went out for veggie ravioli with Ashima, exactly what I was craving. Big difference from Buenos Aires – weather. Brr.

Today:
So far it´s been another mainly in-transit day. I´m fine with this bus time, enjoy listening to my iPod/reading/reflecting.

Bariloche is a beautiful (and touristy) town. On the lake (should be snowcapped mountains nearby), a common destination for groups of recent high school graduates, a haven of good chocolate… more details soon.

Schedule for rest of trip:

This weekend, depending on weather
Parque Nacional de los Arrayanes - Bariloche
Cerro Catedral, Circuito grande.

Monday
-class at Universidad de Comahue on ethnicity and social movements in Patagônia (indigenous, Chilenos, immigrants)
Meet with community organization (Radio Comunitaria en Bariloche)

Tuesday
Class on Mapuche identity, discussion with local youth. Traditional medicine vs. local. Reproductive health.

Wednesday
Environmental issues in Patagonia – minerals, toxic residue, nuclear trash, tree clearning, impact of tourism
Visit to nuclear plant
Sustainable tourism? Visit to recycling project

Movie and debate – documentary on environmental and Mapuche themes

Thursday
Human rights in Patagonia. The land as the center of this debate.
Meeting about work on the land…

Friday
TBD
Return to BA at 3:10

Many of my thoughts right now are centered on possibilities for the final project. Currently thinking about immigration and how people retain their senses of self after the move (especially interested as I can relate to the feeling of instability and confusion). Much to learn in this area - more on this to come.

posted by Colleen @ 3:02 PM