Update from Bariloche
I´ve realized that I really like hostel life. Just had my third homemade meal in a row. Lunch today (basically same as dinner yesterday): bread from a local bakery and cheese, tomato, avocado, lemon to season from a local supermarket. I also have apples, banana, granola, and milk in a baggie with my name on it in the fridge. There´s a big kitchen with everything needed… silverware, oven, toaster, microwave, blender (pumpkin soup tonight possibly). I like taking care of myself this way (reminds me of apartment life from last summer). Amazing what a trip to the grocery store can do for a day´s feeling of competence.
We had a class on the origins and indigenous of Patagonia this morning from 10-12. Patagonia is an area that has always been coveted by especially Europeans - they have often seen it with its natural beauty and open spaces as an area to conquer. Much history however ignores the indigenous which were affected by these moves. For example, one event is known as the Conquest of the Desert. In reality though it was more than the desert that was conquered - a group of people was wiped out. Today in Bariloche a double face exists - that of tourism and that of the poorer neighborhoods of immigrants and Chilenos.
After class I went to buy my food, browsed in a local bookstore, and signed up for a Pilates class tomorrow! I´d eyed this place yesterday when it was closed - happily when I went today the lady had one trial spot left in the class for 6:30 tomorrow. I´m there. In these ways I can craft my own experience here within the framework of our program. We have another class, this one specifically on local social movements, from 4-6.
In the last week especially I´ve tried to settle on a topic for my final project. After often feeling confused and overwhelmed by scope of possibilities, I´m incredibly excited to be making headway. Yesterday I met with Brenda to talk about my latest ideas. I remain very interested in the idea of cultural hegemony, Gramsci´s theory that a diverse culture can be ruled by one group – that everyday life is the basis for larger systems of domination. I understand this by thinking of layers… everyone lives in the way that makes sense to them individually, but often without a full understanding of ´the larger hegemony of society.´
From Wikipedia again…
In such a layered hegemony, individual common sense, which is fragmented, is effective in helping people deal with small, everyday activities. But common sense also inhibits their ability to grasp the larger systemic nature of exploitation and hegemony. People focus on immediate concerns and problems rather than focusing upon more fundamental sources of social oppression.
I want to explore NGO work in a rural area – what is being done to raise awareness and create empowerment within the cultural hegemony related to gender oppression? I told Brenda that I´m fine leaving Buenos Aires, and that I actually think I´ll be able to work better outside of the distractions of the city – so if all goes well I´ll be heading back up North (humitas, llamas, beauty). We talked about Red Puna, a network we met with during our trip North that connects many NGOs working in the area. They have an area for gender – we talked about my going there to explore the question of changed consciousness. Though a new empowered perspective works toward solving the problem (of violence or another form of oppression), it can create a new one. When a woman changes and her environment doesn´t, she can be in worse shape than originally. I want to take part in Red Puna work and talk to people about these questions of breaking hegemony and implications of changing consciousness. Still have to decide on a specific question, but Brenda e-mailed the organization last night and so the ball is rolling… I feel really good about this. Having a tentative plan makes the rest of the semester seem more attackable – we´ll return this weekend for a final week and a half of classes in BA, and then the ISP period will begin. I will probably stay in BA to do research there before heading North for maybe 2 weeks, and then top it off with a week of reflection, final research, and writing in BA. And that´s it! Crazy. Christmas bells will be ringing before long.
Hasta pronto...
El Sur
Currently in Bariloche, in the South of Argentina. Sitting here with multiple layers on – fleece and big puffy jackets scarf, fleece headband… finally just had lunch – a delicious cheesy omelot and orange juice. My luggage will remain where it currently is for more than 1 day - change! I think we´re staying at this hostel for the rest of our trip.
So far…
Wednesday – bus ride from BA to Neuquén. 8:30 at night to 10 next morning. Sleepy so the trip a dreamy haze. Was glad to be more prepared this time with my fresh fruits and veggies to supplement the dry crackers and food they give us.
Thursday – Neuquen
Wandered city, had lunch at supposedly the best local pizza place (was tasty)
Back for a short siesta and then set off for classes
2 classes – one on general background and history of Patagonia and then a second on local social movements
Locutorio time
Dinner at an amazing Arab restaurant – mounds of hummus and tabouli! Followed by group hookah smoking, apple flavoured. Know I looked funny as I tried it for the first time – breathed in and then had to be told ¨open your mouth!¨ when it started coming out of my nose – ha!
Exhausted so back to hostel.
Friday
Back on bus in the morning after breakfast (typical coffee and scones) – headed to a local recuperated factory. These organizations are very impressive – not sure how many there are in Argentina but they are fairly common. These surge when factory owners leave and attempt to close down the factory – workers decide to run the factory themselves, take on all logistics and politics. I am so impressed by factory operation. Walked around admiring sockets turning, tiles sliding along… after all of this learning about complicated problems with no answers, it was refreshing to see such efficient processes. Place A in B, turn C and you will get D, every time.
Next – lunch at a food court and then bus for San Martin de los Andes. We left around 1 and thought we were embarking on a 2 hour trip. We actually arrived at our destination at 10:30 pm (typical). One major holdup occurred around 4 when the bus slowed to a stop… we wondered what was going on and soon heard ¨piquete.¨ Funny that this happened because we´ve been spent a lot of time learning about Piqueteros, a group of people who cut roads to make their grievances known - finally got to experience it firsthand. Many especially middle class in this country become very annoyed with these time-consuming protests... This group of workers was protesting long hours and low wages – being the social movements group that we are, we jumped out of the bus and walked past all the other stopped traffic to talk with the men sitting on tires in the middle of the road. Sort of bizarre to witness – it was very passive (as the men were just sitting there) and had a specific end time, 6:30. Police parked nearby, letting it all go on. Had to wonder about the effectiveness of this mode of protest, especially as we were in a barren very rural area.
Thrilled to arrive at our hostel last night after all those hours in bus - went out for veggie ravioli with Ashima, exactly what I was craving. Big difference from Buenos Aires – weather. Brr.
Today:
So far it´s been another mainly in-transit day. I´m fine with this bus time, enjoy listening to my iPod/reading/reflecting.
Bariloche is a beautiful (and touristy) town. On the lake (should be snowcapped mountains nearby), a common destination for groups of recent high school graduates, a haven of good chocolate… more details soon.
Schedule for rest of trip:
This weekend, depending on weather
Parque Nacional de los Arrayanes - Bariloche
Cerro Catedral, Circuito grande.
Monday
-class at Universidad de Comahue on ethnicity and social movements in Patagônia (indigenous, Chilenos, immigrants)
Meet with community organization (Radio Comunitaria en Bariloche)
Tuesday
Class on Mapuche identity, discussion with local youth. Traditional medicine vs. local. Reproductive health.
Wednesday
Environmental issues in Patagonia – minerals, toxic residue, nuclear trash, tree clearning, impact of tourism
Visit to nuclear plant
Sustainable tourism? Visit to recycling project
Movie and debate – documentary on environmental and Mapuche themes
Thursday
Human rights in Patagonia. The land as the center of this debate.
Meeting about work on the land…
Friday
TBD
Return to BA at 3:10
Many of my thoughts right now are centered on possibilities for the final project. Currently thinking about immigration and how people retain their senses of self after the move (especially interested as I can relate to the feeling of instability and confusion). Much to learn in this area - more on this to come.
Familia!
Still should upload pictures/recount learning from the North (not sure if that will happen before going South, loose ends to tie, papers to write) -- but for now want to post this picture of our lovely dinner from an hour ago. Delicious fresh vegetables and glowing company. How I love this family.
Filled with energy from watching the end of the Duke Mass!
Hasta pronto queridos
Start of an update
Friday night. Stayed in to spend time with mis padres – will miss them if I decide to leave Buenos Aires for the Independent Study Project. For all the times I feel confused here, am sure about the love in this house. Always appreciate that though sometimes when I’m exhausted at the table hard to show it. Just chatted with madre about Christmas traditions. No real pine trees here – not the season for it as Christmas falls in the middle of the summer! They have a small artificial one that they add a new ornament to every year. Presents in this country are opened right after midnight – no waiting around. I told her that we wait until the morning to give Papa Noel time to fly. Here they tell the kids “oh he came when you were in the other room” or something like that. Not the same dream time of sugar-plums. She never dressed up as Papa Noel because she’s always remembered a traumatizing experience from when she was little and her aunt dressed up as the cheery man. “You tricked me!!” This family goes over to her cousin’s house for dinner pre-gift-opening-time – a luxurious place with a garden. Deck the table with rich food... fruitcake (staple here too apparently), tortas de helado (ice cream cake)... Oh Christmas. She got a far away look in her eyes as she explained that this holiday is also full of reminiscing – “always makes me remember the absences.”
I feel stable finally after probably over-thinking a lot since our return last Saturday. (See the trend? I blog when the clear thinking/positivity returns...) Today was brilliantly sunny – woke early and had time to enjoy it from the apartment room as stretched and drank coffee. Class on social organizations in Argentina sort of hard for me to follow...less because of the language than because of the teacher’s jump around style. Enjoyed lunch at a previously hidden-to-me cafe above a bookstore close to the University of Buenos Aires. They had wheat pizza! Later, convinced my Spanish professor to let us go outside (way too gorgeous to be in) so out we went. Upon returning home went for a great run (finally, the last couple have been less than fun) down the street Malabia to a cat (and family)-filled park.
Trip to the North! Time for some kind of recap. Where to begin.
The Flecha Bus: Amazing. The rides were one of my favorite parts; I’m looking forward to riding south on Wednesday. Unlike all other buses I’ve ridden in Argentina, these have plenty of leg room, very comfy seats, movie watching equipment, and people that come around offering snack trays, mate/coffee/tea, dinner, breakfast... felt taken care of! Exciting to sleep on the bus and wake up/start October with a view of the sun rising over the Andes mountains. Goodbye city life.
Actually, with that teaser, I’m going to end it til next time. Esta chica tiene sueno. I plan to write more this weekend, as I work to get things taken care of before the next trip – hasta luego!
Finishing up for now in the North
In Humahuaca (one of the coolest names ever) right now – last morning of our 2 week trip to the North. Feeling bright and cheery – sun shining, just had coffee and toast and jam in our hostel, and ready for today´s bus rides and tomorrow´s return to my Buenos Aires family. Bags are packed to the brim with the fun purchases I couldn´t resist in Bolivia and the ferias at the different places we visited in Argentina. In 30 minutes we´ll make the 2 hourish bus ride to Jujuy (hoping for a movie – makes the trip. On the way here yesterday got to watch the espanol Gone in 60 Seconds.) and then have a few hours to eat lunch and explore. Around 3 we´re meeting with a women´s group and then at 5 we get on the luxurious bus for the return trip to BA. It´s been a long haul of moving from place to place each night – I think everyone´s tired and ready for a little stability before our trip down south.
I have learned so much on this trip – it has definitely been one of the most learning filled two weeks of my life. Will write down some thoughts after they´ve simmered some more. Pictures to come as well – stood in the midst of breathtaking beauty many times in these weeks.
Sampling of the themes…
What makes one poor? (Are the families we stayed with for rural homestays poor?)
Differences in poverty in small communities and in cities
Importance/sacredness of land and why the struggles to retain it are of such vital importance
How indigenous communities live
Perspectives (different necessities for happiness?) of those who live in isolation
Different, more tranquilo, pace of life in the North/other face of Argentina
Adjusting to high altitude – there´s a whole verb (I think apunarse) to describe people´s physical reactions to living in this Puna region (nausea, headaches, trouble breathing). Luckily I bought coca leaves (base of cocaine! Illegal here too but available everywhere) which help with this in a fun rebellious way :)
Llamas!
Overall, feeling much more comfortable here in Latin America and very grateful for the exposure that I´m receiving. Inspired by the work of people in every corner of the world to better general societal well being.
Quote that I love (Thanks Jess, I got this from an away message of yours):
"Either we have hope within us or we don't: it is a dimension of the soul, and it not essentially dependent on some particular observation of the world or estimate of the situation...It is an orientation of the spirit, an orientation of the heart; it transcends the world that is immediately experienced, and it is anchored somewhere beyond its horizons… Hope, in this deep and powerful sense, is not the same thing as joy that things are going well, or willingness to invest in enterprises that are obviously heading for success but rather, an ability to work for something because it is good, not just because it stands a chance to succeed. The more precarious the situation in which we demonstrate hope, the deeper the hope is. Hope is definitely not the same thing as optimism. It is not the conviction that something will turn out well but the certainty that something makes sense, regardless of how it turns out." - Vaclav Havel
Back to the travels!
ready to get down and dirty
Last internet time for a while. In a locutorio near the center of Salta. Leaving at 7 am tomorrow to begin the more rural part of these 2 weeks. After I take out a little bit of money for the wool products that we´ll be surrounded by, I will be completely ready. Found peanut butter so feel better about the upcoming protein options – though actually I´ve been eating more meat. Yesterday and today both (little bits).
Thoughts on Salta...
I have enjoyed these days. My family is so hospitable and willing to talk. I didn´t realize at first that they aren´t even being paid. Pepe especially has hours to spend with me, so we´ve spent much time at the table after meals talking over different points of culture. Alcohol, drugs, differences between BA and the North (many in the North aren´t huge fans of Portenos, think they´re too self-absorbed and materialistic), US dating culture, food differences...
This city – with its colonial architecture and many plazas, museums, beautiful churches – is magical. Didn´t realize until today, however, how sheltered my original perspective was. My family lives comfortably and has a maid who cooks and cleans. During these days I left this environment after eating well to walk to ¨Institute Elite¨ where our classes were held, and though we came to terms with tough issues in theoretical ways I had yet to see them before me.
Today after another class (these are given by different local professors each day) we got on a bus to get a more holistic view of Salta. We visited two ¨comedores¨ (soup kitchens), a health center, and then ate lunch and talked with a group of women who are fighting for their right to build houses on the (desolate) land.
It was overwhelming to walk into those groups of children. Felt awkward as we weren´t there to help, only talk and then leave. The kids were mesmerized by our cameras and loved having their pictures taken. I talked with a few but before long we had to leave – didn´t like the way I felt saying adios.
Being in these impoverished areas made me feel discouraged and sad that resources aren´t distributed more evenly... Makes me think about how unimportant some of my preoccupations are. Though not to the same degree, I did also feel encouraged – these soup kitchens, for example, operate not because churches or standing institutions started them, but because people in an individual neighborhood came together. Inspiring stories. I do like how one of the professors with our group today commented to me during lunch that in spite of circumstances, people do find reasons to laugh and find joy.
Tomorrow we leave for an indigenous Wicci community to help with house construction. Before that though, I have another aerobics dance appointment (tonight)! The class I went to on Monday with my mom was the most fun I´ve had in Salta. It was intense and awesome! Didn´t know what to expect but was happy to be greeted by high energy music (even hip hop Britney Spears Not a girl not yet a women) and people kicking, jumping, stretching, sweating in step. Makes me smile – did my best to join in, though sometimes the teacher sort of shook her head and smiled and had to help me. These dance classes are the most fun way to exercise that I know! I welcome the contrast after these days.
Ok, before I head out here is more inspirational material. Ha love this, copied it off a poster hanging on the wall of the place where we had our classes (little kids go to this private institution to learn english).
Spring is What it´s All About
Close your eyes
Take a deep breath
The air is so sweet
It will heat
Your heart and soul
Open your eyes
See the buds bloom
Colors are so bright
They will light
Your heart and soul
Open your ears
To the sounds of nature
There is such a rustle
It will sparkle
Your heart and soul
Stretch your arms
Reach for the sun
It is so warm
It will transform
Your heart and soul
Take your shoes off
Feel the grass
It is so smooth
It will soothe
Your heart and soul
Ana M. Martino
And also – found this written on the wall of a gorgeous Franciscan church.
Sumo y glorioso Dios, ilumina las tinieblas de mi corazón y dame fé recta, esperanza cierta y caridad perfecta, sentido y conocimiento, Señor, para que cumpla tu santo y veraz mandamiento.
San Francisco de Asís
Until the 15th mis amigos!
The North!
Quick update of my schedule, no time to translate - but basically we are in Salta (one of the largest cities in Northern Argentina) for a few days taking classes on the geography and social makeup/history of the area. Soon we will travel to the more rural areas. I am staying with a friendly yet uncomfortably sort of racist family (more on that eventually, mostly toward Bolivians). Family composed of Mom Silvia (accompanying her to aerobics class tonight), Dad Pepe, 14 year old son Mauro and 13 year old daughter Melisa. Great introduction to the city yesterday - the Spanish colonial style of all the buildings is breathtaking.
Very basic schedule:
Sabado 30
Partida de Buenos Aires 18:00 horas Terminal Retiro – nos encontramos a las 17:15 en oficina Flechabus micro
Domingo 1
Salta - visita
Lunes 2
Universidad de Salta
Martes 3
Universidad de Salta
Miércoles 4
Universidad de Salta
Jueves 5
Universidad de Salta
Pizarro
Viernes 6
Visita comunidad rural
Pizarro
Sabado 7
Visita comunidad - viaje
Tilcara
Domingo 8
Visitas Purmamarca y salinas
Tilcara
Lunes 9
Presentación red – visita Quebrada
Yavi
Martes 10
Viaje a comunidades a la mañana temprano
familias
Miércoles 11
Estadia rural familias
familias
Jueves 12
Estadia rural familias- 5 de la tarde vuelta a Yavi
Yavi
Viernes 13
Evaluación de la estadía, cierre con la Red (think this is the group of indigenous women who will talk to us about their work against violence!) – viaje hasta la Quebrada
Tilcara
Sabado 14
Vuelta a Buenos Aires
sending love!
